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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.